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All examples of modelling are shown on the basic patterns that was calculated in the program "Cutter". To another examples of models conduct links in top part of the page.

Technical Modelling

Screen shots of the program Cutter 3.56

"Cutter" calculates accurate basis patterns by individual measures for any human's figure, for modeling and manufacturing products without fitting. Modelling is performed by a master on a cutting table. More information about the program .. >>

Download Cutter 4.23 (EN)
On this page are shown a modelling methods which not change position of clothes on a person figure, so-called technical modelling.

Methods of technical and decorative - constructive modelling are applied to development of clothes models.

Contents:

Example of Modelling on a Basic Pattern
Dividing Details of a Clothes (Parallel and Radial)

Process of modelling can be divided into 3 stages.

The first stage of modelling — working at solution of a dress composition, performance of the sketch of model and selection of a material to it.

The second stage — definition of control areas and points on the basic pattern and drawing style lines.

The third stade — development of patterns.

Initial stage of a patterns development this is transferring of a breast tuck (if it is necessary) from a humeral edge into a arm-hole or lateral edge, or a neckline, or a waistline, or a front center.

For this purpose on a basic pattern (according to a style) to plan new position of a breast tuck. The tuck can start with any point of lateral edge, but is not closer 3 cm. from top of lateral edge. Cut front on new direction of the tuck, connect edges humeral tuck and open tuck on the new place. Depict the sides of a tuck, not reaching 2-5 centimeters up to the supreme point of a breast.


Example of Modelling on a Basic Pattern^

Jacket with relief seams from arm-hole and with little tucks on breast. Pocket with the small inclination from waistline. Wide lapels, collar with the blunt ends. Fabric is a woolen flannel.

Draw constructive lines on the front: the front relief, the position of pocket and its form, the position of breast tuck and its length, the forms of collar and lapel.

Cut the lateral part of front and the waistline allowance tuck as it is required for the new planned form.

Unite sites of the breast tuck from shoulder, thus the breast tuck will be moved apart from a relief. Unite the sides of waistline tuck lower than the line of pocket.

Paste a paper under a breast tuck and depict the sides of a tuck, not reaching 2 cm. point G7.

Curves of front for the given jacket are ready.


Dividing Details of a Clothes (Parallel and Radial) ^

This method is applied to reception a creases, gathers, folds, draperies.

The method consists in designing of clothes of a necessary form on a pattern drawing and transformation this pattern to a constructive parts of a new form.

Using this method is shown on samples of modelling the several variants of sleeves.

The sleeves had been magnified in top part, with a gathers and with a creases and gradually narrowed down. This sleeves is being building on basic pattern of Sleeve with Elbow Dart.

At modelling sleeves with a increased volume in top part is necessary to truncate a shoulder width on 1-2 cm. for the best positions of the given sleeve.

The sleeve with a gathers on top part. Cut a sleeve pattern at horizontal level of beginning its narrowing. Cut a middle line of a sleeve up to a horizontal cut. Remove details each from other on 5-10 sm.

The sleeve with a pleats on top part. Cut a sleeve pattern at horizontal level of beginning its narrowing. Cut a top part of a sleeve on directions of pleats. Dissolve the top parts of a sleeve so, that on everyone pleat the allowance would be about 2 cm.
The example of use a method of dividing details at modelling a jacket.

The short jacket of an adjoining silhouette. The back with the counter-crease on middle and with the one-sided creases on a sides. Bottom part of the back is cut. From one lateral crease to other is stitched half-belt in.
On the back pattern cut a humeral tuck up to point U, cut the ironing allowance on arm-hole up to point U, cut the waistline tuck and prolong to cut up to line (Y,U). Cut bottom part of back on the waistline.

Unite shoulder part and ironing allowance on arm-hole.
Draw the middle line of back from point A01 to waistline on direct line. Draw line from point T01 to T. Back is ready.
Download Cutter 4.23 (EN)
Technical Modelling |  Blouses |  Dresses |  Dresses (2) |  Wedding Dress |  Bodies |  Waistcoats |  Jackets |  Jackets (2) |  Suits |  Autumn Coats |  Winter Coats |  Skirts |  Pants
Shirts |  Jackets |  Vests |  Suit Jackets |  Coats |  Pants
Children’s
Pavlova N.I.
21.05.2007 - 13.06.2022
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